A Magical Evening at the Soni Highlands

Arrival at the Plateau

I found myself standing at the heart of the Soni Highlands, a sprawling plateau nestled in the countryside of Nara Prefecture (35 minutes by car from Nabari Station). As the sun began its slow descent, the landscape transformed before my eyes. Lanterns began to glow softly around the Okame pond at the center of the highland, twinkling like stars scattered across the earth. I stood in awe, completely captivated by the serenity of the scene.

It was the end of September, that brief moment between seasons when the vibrant green grass that carpets the plateau from March through late September begins to fade. In its place, the soft, silver-tinted pampas grass starts to emerge. From October until March, the highland is dominated by these elegant plumes, swaying gently in the breeze like waves in a sea of gold and silver. This natural cycle continues year after year, ending with a controlled burn in early spring—a practice meant to clear the land and nourish the soil for the seasons ahead.

The surrounding mountains frame the highland like a protective embrace, adding to the feeling that you’ve stepped into another world—quiet, sacred, and still somehow alive with movement.

The Lanterns

Every autumn, around 200 lanterns are placed around the central pond, forming a glowing ring of light. When viewed from above, it looks almost like a ring of fire—an ethereal sight that draws visitors from near and far. Whether you’re standing beside the pond or climbing the steps to one of the higher viewpoints, the lanterns have a mesmerizing quality. They bring a sense of wonder, almost as if you’ve stumbled into a scene from a fairytale.

It’s not just a visual experience either. There’s something about being surrounded by that soft light, under an open sky, that makes you feel calm and deeply present. It’s a reminder of how much joy can come from something simple—lanterns, grass, sky, and silence.

Soon, the silver pampas grass will fully replace the lush green turf, blanketing the highland in soft tones that shimmer under both sun and moonlight. Photographers and nature lovers alike flock here each year to capture this dramatic seasonal shift. And while photos can certainly be beautiful, nothing compares to being there in person.

Beginning the Climb

As I made my way toward the steps that gently curve up the plateau, I found myself stopping again and again to admire the scenery. The pampas grass, already catching the orange glow of the setting sun, appeared to glow from within. The lanterns flickered gently in the wind, casting warm pools of light along the path.

Just before the steps, I passed an open seating area filled with picnic benches—an ideal spot for a quiet lunch, an afternoon of reading, or simply taking in the view. I made a mental note to return there someday with a book and more time.

Finally, I reached the base of the steps. While the climb can appear a bit daunting at first glance, I promise the view from the top is more than worth the effort. The trail is well-maintained throughout the year, but as with any nature walk or hike, I recommend wearing suitable footwear and bringing a bottle of water—something I, unfortunately, forgot on this particular visit.

The First Viewpoint

A short way up the staircase, I reached the first stop-off point. From here, you can look back over the seating area and take in a wider view of the highland’s gentle curves. I paused for a moment to snap a few quick photos. I was racing against the sun at this point, eager to reach my favorite viewpoint before it disappeared completely behind the distant mountains.

A Sunset Worth Climbing for

About halfway up, the altitude began to catch up with me. At 700 to 900 meters above sea level, the air is noticeably thinner, and the climb becomes a bit more demanding (especially if, like me, you are running up the steps to beat the sunset). Still, the reward is unmatched. I arrived just in time to catch the final rays of sunlight spilling over the horizon. The landscape was bathed in a warm, golden glow, casting long shadows and highlighting the plateau in the most beautiful way.

Though I could have continued even higher, I reluctantly decided to turn back—I’d left my water in the car, and I didn’t want to risk becoming dehydrated. Still, I felt satisfied. The view, the sunset, the lanterns—it was all perfect.

Descending in the Twilight

As I descended the stairs, I found myself slowing down. The lanterns, now fully aglow in the fading light, cast a warm amber hue over the path. The soundscape was equally calming: the chirping of crickets, the rustle of pampas grass in the breeze, and the occasional call of a bird settling in for the night. It felt like nature was exhaling—calm, content, and unhurried.

Even the walk back to my car was filled with beauty. I was amazed at how well the lanterns illuminated the trail, creating a safe and peaceful passage through the darkening landscape.

Exploring the Trails

There are several trails that weave through the Soni Highlands, each offering its own perspective of the plateau. However, only the paths closest to the central pond are illuminated by lanterns, creating a warm and inviting glow as evening sets in. When you enter from the main entrance, you’ll be greeted by a choice: go left or right. The trail to the right gently hugs the base of the highland, curving around the far side of the pond. It’s quieter and slightly more sheltered, offering a tranquil walk along the mountain’s edge. The left-hand path leads you toward the open seating area, gradually guiding you up toward the steps that curve along the hillside. No matter which path you choose, both will eventually lead you to the foot of the climb.

Each route has its own charm, and I’d recommend exploring both if you have the time.

A Return to the Top

After grabbing my water from the car, I felt rejuvenated—and curious. I wanted to see what the highland looked like in full darkness, lit only by the lanterns and the stars above. So, I climbed the stairs once more, this time at a slower pace, fully immersed in the nighttime atmosphere.

The sky had cleared completely, revealing a breathtaking canopy of stars. Soni Highlands is an excellent spot for stargazing, far from the lights of the city and high enough to offer an unobstructed view of the heavens. With lanterns lighting the path below and stars twinkling above, it felt like I was floating between two worlds.

At my favorite viewpoint, I paused to take it all in. From that height, the plateau looked as if it were ablaze—a ring of warm light encircling the cool darkness of the pond. No photo could ever do it justice. The air was crisp, the sky was clear, and the stillness of the highland wrapped around me like a blanket.

A Perfect Ending

Eventually, I made my way back down one final time. I didn’t want to leave, but I knew I’d return. The Soni Highlands has a way of pulling you back—of whispering that there’s always more to discover, more moments of beauty waiting to be found.

As I walked to my car, the last of the lantern light guiding my steps, I felt a deep sense of peace. The kind of peace that stays with you long after you’ve left, carried in your memory like a flame.

Final Thoughts

Whether you're visiting for the pampas grass, the lanterns, or simply to take in the expansive views, the Soni Highlands is a place that speaks to the soul. Come at sunset, stay until the stars appear, and don’t forget your water—you’ll want to stay longer than you planned.